Did I have my best ever climbing experience yesterday?

13th Nov 2007

You may or may not have gathered that I headpointed 'Slab and Crack' at Curbar yesterday afternoon. I am still in a daze about it and haven't had a chance to put my thoughts down for the blog (on my lunch hour at work at the moment).

I have to say it was an amazing experience; I went through a lot of emotions and processess that I have never had to before to climb a route.

I wanted to try it on Saturday but it was a washout. Sunday didn't start off too well but when we got to the crag everything was a bit damp but bizarrely the conditions on S&L were amazing. I felt like I could hang the holds all day. I had asked some friends to spot but I didn't know if I was going to be able to make myself lead the route. So it was a bit wierd trying to arrange people for an event that I didn't know was going to happen.

Anyway, I toproped it a couple of times and it all felt good, so contemplated for a while on whether I was going to go for the lead.

When I first had a go at this route a while back, the thought of leading it made me feel sick!

I just couldn't imagine putting myself in such a dangerous scenario with the climbing as tenuous as it was. I said to myself I would be so happy if I managed to top rope it in a oner because I found the crux very hard. The whole route just seemed sustained and pretty dangerous.

Then the inevitable happened, I managed to top rope it clean. I did feel really pleased but the cogs started whirring...well this means there's a chance I could lead it.

But I just couldn't get my head round the section before the first bit of gear. It's got some tenuous moves on nothing feet. And I found for me, a move in the middle of this bit, a Lucy Creamer crux. I was an inch or so away from climbing this move like everybody else but just couldn't, so had to make up my own little sequence. It was great but hard. It utilises rubbish feet and an even more rubbish crimp.

This was my stopper move, the rest felt fine.

But I learnt some good stuff just through trying this move in various ways and gained knowledge on what your feet will stick onto, in fact this route as a whole is amazing for this as you have to use a lot of smeary feet.

I will have to continue this later as my lunch break is coming to an end!

I will post the rest tonight or tomorrow...