Light at the end of the tunnel?

16th Jul 2009

Things are looking up! I am starting to feel like a climber again. Since myself, John Horscroft and Tim went up to Yorkshire to shoot pictures for various magazine articles a couple of weeks ago, I’ve got quite keen. Well, it is relative; I’ve been to Gordale twice and Kilnsey twice. But I’d forgotten how good those crags are (it had been about five years since I’d ventured up there) and I seem to have got the Yorkshire bug- which is a bit of a bind- what with the 2hr+ drive each way but nothing’s ever perfect is it?

I completely surprised myself the first time I went to Kilnsey by retro-flashing ‘The Ashes’ f7c+. I did a couple of warm ups and then my friend Ruth put the clips in it, so I thought well it’ll be a good way to get fit if I try and redpoint The Ashes. So I got on it expecting to get to the top with 4-5 rests on the way but somehow managed to keep going to the top without falling. I was completely amazed, as f7a had felt the living end the week before! I’d done The Ashes about 10 yrs ago and couldn’t remember anything, so at the crux I got Ruth to shout up and tell me where the holds were. But it felt really nice to feel like a climber again; it seems to have been a while!

I’ve had two climbing days since that day and nothing fantastic to report but I’m just working at gaining some endurance back. I guess it’s working, I’m just not sure how long it’ll take me to feel fit again.

I tried an f8a at Kilnsey called The Bulge that I haven’t done before. It seems quite a good route; especially for me at the moment because the hard move is right at the top, in fact it’s almost the last move. So the process of working this route will definitely get me fitter. Unfortunately, a successful redpoint feels quite a way off. I’m feeling very tired at the top and the hard bit really does feel quite hard at the moment. Oh well, never mind. It’ll be a good process.

Bad news on the van though, it’s STILL not fixed. I’m getting pretty angry about it now, as I’ve had no transport now for about 6 weeks and the future looks bleak! It’s especially inconvenient now because my sister and I have been organising something special for my Mum’s 70th birthday and I’ve had to hire a car to travel down south to get ready for the do. I’m hoping to hear good news about the van tomorrow but I’m certainly not holding my breath.

I’m having an enforced week off from climbing and it’s nice to feel quite excited about getting back up to Yorkshire next week. I hope the rain won’t spoil play, as the conditions have been amazing.

Can’t wait to find out.

I’m sitting here in my sister’s house looking out at the rain, hmmm. It better stop by Saturday…