A dreary week but still climbable.

28th Nov 2011

The gang

I have been getting more climbing done recently, some outdoors and some inside. My shoulder has been feeling ok but is definitely in need of some sessions with the Chinese Doctor, as it’s starting to stiffen up again. The good news came through a few days ago that I have an appointment with a shoulder physio at the Northern General for 13th December. Unfortunately, this will mean that I will possibly only get two sessions with the physio before I go back to my specialist (23rd December!) to review whether the physio treatment is helping at all. We left 6 weeks between our appointments in order that would be enough time to get some physio under my belt but the speed at which the NHS works, has again proved to be a fruitless exercise. From initially starting this whole process in July, I don’t really feel any further forward- still not having a diagnosis as to what my problem is. I am hoping though, that as the physio deals with shoulders all the time, she may have a good idea as to what the underlying problem is. I’ll see in a couple of weeks- fingers crossed!

But as I said, I’ve been climbing more which is always good for the mind and body. Last week was great as I was out most days with a couple of visiting US climbers; Madeleine Sorkin and Lizzy Scully. Frank Cannings from the SW brought these two up to sample the grit, unfortunately we couldn’t get the weather quite right but Madeleine especially seemed very psyched and the cold and wet rock didn’t deter her. Maddy, Lizzy and Frank toughing it out at Stanage. Doesn't look as grim as it was!

I was happy pointing her at some classics, with Curbar providing the best conditions although it was pretty breezy and cold. Madeleine notched up some impressive onsights, that really didn’t cause her any problems and she dispatched them with ease. She onsighted:

Usurper E4 6a

Moonwalk E4 6a

Mooncrack E5 6b

Moonshine E5 6b

It was great to see a confident woman, making short work of these routes which probably don’t get onsighted very often. I would guess that Moonshine, has never been onsighted by a woman before.

Hopefully, she’ll be back in the future and with better weather could get on some harder stuff that really challenges her. Watch this space.

I’ve been to the Churnet a couple of times recently which I really like. I’m quite into traverses at the moment, so this place suits me down to the ground. I did a V7 traverse on Friday called The Virgin Wall Traverse which is very unique as you are pulling on loads of pebbles. It’s pretty cool and also very useful in the rain as we found out! The rain lashed down and we just carried on climbing- can’t say better than that! I’d like to go back to Wright’s Rock when it’s drier and get some of the things done there, it looked very good but was pretty damp when we were there a couple of weeks ago.

Off to The Works later for some fun bouldering but hoping to get down to The Foundry more over the next couple of weeks for bouldering on The Wave. Over the years when I’ve bouldered there regularly, I’ve found it really helps me to work on my power and is a very good training venue. The problems just seem more power specific rather than weird funkiness.

Frank's find at Curbar, true British cragging food!