Marion

24th Feb 2008

Question:

The more I climb, the more I find the “fear factor” control makes 80% of a performance.

I can’t rely on grading, I will chicken-out because of an overhang (it petrifies me) or succeed a fairly technical route with crimps, finger locks and unusual movements.

I did find trusting my belayer is a critical success factor. I also find climbing with someone more experienced with a laid back attitude to performance helps.

How do you forget/put aside your fears?

Answer:

I’m sure this question will have a lot of readers nodding their heads in agreement. The ‘fear factor’ as you put it, really does hinder many climbers from climbing to their true potential. Therefore, this is a difficult question to answer, as there are many different reasons why fear will be stopping you.

You have already been self assessing, as you have worked out that you have a problem with overhangs. You need to face this issue and work on gaining strength. Overhangs obviously require more upper body strength and this is something women especially need to address (possibly with weight training). You need to just get on more of them. Get a friend to put a top rope up on an overhang- making sure the rope is clipped into quick draws, so that when you fall off, you will be able to get back on the wall after a rest