Autumn f8a redpoint

9th Sep 2014


In my last blog, I wrote that Tim and I were heading to The Gower Peninsula to shoot an article for a US magazine. Unfortunately, Tim has badly wrenched his back and has been laid up in bed for a few days. So Gower is on hold but this has meant I was able to go down to the Cornice, Cheedale yesterday and managed to redpoint Unleashing The Wild Physique, f8a. It's a great route which I really enjoyed doing, although it did have a minging hold on the crux that I hated holding (the hold I am going for in the picture).

But yesterday (Monday 8 Sep), the conditions were absolutely perfect and the lower temperature meant that I could actually hold the hold for more than a few seconds without greasing off it.

I had been on it a couple of times last week and knew it was pretty pointless, as it was so warm and humid that I could barely hold anything small without losing skin and pinging off.

So when I did it yesterday, it felt like a different route and fortunately went really well--even the oddly scary bit at the top. Once I got through the crux, there was no way I was not going to commit to the top move; which was a bit of a throw from poor footholds. Easily blowable but thankfully my feet didn't ping. Good old Scarpas!

Tim Glasby made a very short video (16 secs, an Instagram thing) which I have posted here in my videos, take a look.