Classic f8a redpoint: 'Powerplant'

22nd Sep 2014

Cruxes  Powerplant vertical2 Happy Cornice

I’ve had a very eventful week, with some diverse experiences; from the usual climbing down Cheedale to seeing inside Abbey Road studios. Well, I didn’t quite get inside a studio but we dropped off my nephews in reception, who were there with their band ‘The Jacques’ mastering their new EP. Exciting stuff.

It was a manic couple of days driving from Sheffield to Bristol to Surrey to London and all back again at three in the morning. I had my Great Auntie Betty’s funeral on monday morning, who had sadly died at the grand old age of 98! But sometimes these things come at the right time and her quality of life really had become minimal, so it is good to think that she may be joining my Nana (her elder sister) somewhere in the ether- RIP Aunty Betty.

After this it was a manic tour of London with family, including Abbey Road and then a record label launch party at a club called The Borderline, a great live music venue in Soho. Hence the 3am arrival back at my sister’s house just outside Bristol and all this on top of a developing cold!

I had already committed to climbing on wednesday (17 Sep), so although I felt very rough due to lack of sleep and a cold, it was nice to get out into the fresh air of Cheedale.

(Left, my trusty 'cruxes' which have become my new favourite shoes, next to a rather pretty plait that somebody had made in the grass underneath 'Powerplant')

And to my shock, I managed to redpoint ‘Powerplant’, an absolute classic f8a of ‘the dale’. I had been absolutely rubbish putting the clips in and was shaking with fatigue, it was all pointing towards a short day. So I decided to get my clips out and was going to top rope it (as I wasn’t sure if I could get to the top without help!) but at the last minute, I decided to pull the rope and go up on lead. What a fortuitous decision! Somehow, I got through the crux for the first time, messed up the sequence after this but managed to hang on and sort it out. Now very pumped but very psyched, there was no way I was going to fall off. So I managed to get a little back in my arms for the upper wall which still has some tricky moves on it. Awesome day and completely out of the blue. It really is incredible what the body can do, even when you think there is no hope. This route had gone from feeling impossible to within a couple of days being ticked. And the best bit is that I am now off to Kalymnos and the Cornice will probably be wet when I get back, so I would’ve probably had to wait until spring to have another go.

Off to get some 30 degree heat...!

From left to right: Oli (my nephew), Ali (my sister), Jake (my nephew), Elliot  (The Jacques' drummer) and Imogen (Jake's girlfriend) all eating our £5 chinatown buffet.

 

(left above, Lucy doing the burly moves to get to the third clip, before heading right to the crux)

 

(left, very happy and relieved to have climbed 'Powerplant', a route I have wanted to do for ages)