About

Mut der Verzweiflung 8 -9- web
  • DOB: 19/04/1971
  • Home: Sheffield, UK.
  • Occupation: Professional Climber.
  • Other interests: Animal Welfare, Health and Environmental issues.
  • Sponsors: Marmot, DMM, Scarpa, Grivel.

Having been introduced to climbing in 1988 at college in Bristol, my life took on a whole new direction. My thoughts of becoming a P.E. teacher were diverted to the world of outdoor activities and instructing. Consequently, I taught at various centres around the UK for a few years, living the life of a multi-activity instructor.

But it wasn’t until the Bristol Climbing Centre opened in 1992, that with their support, I really started to feel like a climber. This was the point that I made the brave/ unwise decision to dedicate my life to climbing. Twenty+ years down the line, I am happy to say it is still my one true passion. Earning a living from climbing is a hard and rewarding career but I don’t look back with any regrets and wouldn’t change the path I have chosen.

I have enjoyed competitions for many years and love the competition arena. But equally relish the lonely feeling of being high up a route, with only a few dodgy wires between me and the ground.

The variety of disciplines in climbing has held my interest and kept me on my toes, there is always something new to try and master. I think this is one of the reasons I have stayed keen for so long.

Although climbing has been my main focus for a long time, I do have other interests. I love acting but rarely spend enough time in one place to pursue it. But when I do manage to partake, I really enjoy it.

I am very keen on animal welfare and have been a vegetarian for about 19 years. We have a gorgeous dog Kodo, who was rescued from an RSPCA shelter and she now has a very happy life being a crag dog.

Yoga has been something that I have done for years and I’m sure it has helped my body not get too trashed and obviously it’s very good for maintaining flexibility. I enjoy the relaxation side of it, as I am not very good at this normally, it gives me an opportunity to chill. When I neglect to do my yoga, I really miss it and start feeling like I’m going to fall apart, so I know it is something that I will always do.

I also seem to be doing a lot of mountain biking these days, which works well as a complement to climbing. It takes me to some great places and keeps my cardio-vascular system fit. If my motivation for climbing is a bit low, I can rely on mountain biking to give me my ‘outdoor’ buzz.

When people ask me what my favourite climb is, or even more broadly what style of climbing I like the best, I find it very difficult to answer. I have never specialised in one area. Partly because I get bored doing the same old thing (possibly why I have such itchy feet) but also I like the stimulation of doing something new. So if pushed, I would say my first love is trad onsighting. Basically I enjoy it all and as long as I’m doing some sort of climbing, I’m happy.

High points

Lucy is a true all-rounder; at home on the sea cliffs of pembroke, the ice of Colorado and the international competition arena.

Hardest trad on-sight: ‘Boss Hogg’ E7 6c- Pembrokeshire,UK.

Hardest sport on-sight: Several f8a's of which her favourite is 'Monocroma' f8a, Raco de Misa, Spain.

Hardest headpoint 'Slab and Crack' E8 6c, Curbar, The Peak District, UK.

Hardest redpoint: 'Kalea Borroka' f8b+, Siurana, Spain.

Hardest mountain route: ‘Hasse-Brandler’ UIAA VIII, 500m Cima Grande, Dolomites, Italy.

Expeditions: new route, ‘Venus Envy’ E4/5 6a, 600m The Baroness, Greenland. 2001.

Mixed new route: ‘Mighty Aphrodite’ M9x- Ouray, Colorado USA, 2002. Unrepeated.

New boulder problem: ‘Trente-six’ Font 7c+- Veaux, France. 2007.

Only British woman to onsight numerous f8a's
First ascent of ‘Mighty Aphrodite’ M9, a rock and ice route in Colorado that still hasn't seen a second ascent in its original unbolted state. It has now been bolted.

Competitions

British Leading Champion: 1997/98, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2007.

British Bouldering Champion: 2001.

British Masters Champion: 1998.

Best International result: Qualified for two World-Cup finals, gaining best result: 9th place 2003.

Best Ice competition result: 2nd place, Ouray International Ice Festival, Colorado 2002.